The high point of the Rudi Pichler Riesling collection is his 2004 Riesling Smaragd Achleiten, a wine that will set stone-lickers’ tongues aquiver, while also satisfying those who like their Rieslings high in acidity. With aromas of lemon zest and quarry dust, an oily-rich yet blazingly bright and pungently herbal and mineral, this high energy super-concentrate of Riesling and mica schist is more fearsome and formidable than loveable, but I suspect, as Pichler does, that it needs several years in bottle. As a result of his self-described “purist approach” to the selection of grapes in 2004, there is precious little of this wine, so interested parties ought not delay in applying for some. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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