The ruby/purple-colored 1995 Red Mountain Reserve (a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot) has an inviting and sultry nose of black cherries and raspberries. If the taster tends to believe a plush and soft wine has been made, the shock of its super-structure, tannin, and hardness will be unsettling. It possesses plenty of tangy blackberry fruit (discernable only after considerable effort). I am willing to give Cabernet Sauvignons the benefit of the doubt when it comes to tannic structure, but this wine is a gamble. Projected maturity: 2003-2009.Hedges, owned by Tom and Anne-Marie Hedges and a consortium of Swedish shareholders, is one of the rare wineries in Washington State to offer quality wines at $10 or less.Tel. (206) 391-6056.
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