The Long-Depaquit 2008 Chablis Vaucopin – 15-20% of which was rendered in barrel – was pungently herbal in aroma; saline; and overall rather reduced in cast, but with airing offers a whole lot of appeal. Red currant and cherry with the bitterness and tartness of their pits and seeds mingle with citrus, herbs, and peat-like smokiness in a manner that calls to my mind Ruwer Riesling. Firm in feel – indeed, palpably dense – yet refreshing, this finishes with a long, fine interplay of herb, tart fruit, and stone. Expect it to be well worth following over the coming 4-6 years. The Long-Depaquit 2008 grand crus were bottled already in January, though had I not known this I might have been tempted to ascribe their firmness and at times somewhat muted flavors in April to post-bottling shock. Seemingly aware of their potential for austerity, Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot indicated that he quite actively worked the lees of his young 2008s.Various importers, including Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515 and Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718) 482-0200

Yeasty nose - almost beer-like. Pure fruit palate with ethereal weight. Smooth texture, lovely ripeness, excellent balance. Effortless.