From a grand cru-like right bank exposure, but well upstream from the grand crus, Long-Debaquit’s 2006 Chablis Vaucopin smells of grapefruit and ripe apricot; fills the mouth with oily, luscious, citrus oil and apricot nectar tinged with salt and herbs; and finishes with richness yet refreshment. As generous as this is today, and despite its opulence and relatively high alcohol, it ought to reward cellaring for at least 2-3 years. While a small percentage of this was vinified in barrel, all of the other premier crus at this address are raised entirely in tank. The 2005 was equally generous and better-balanced. The Long-Depaquit estate has been owned by the Bichot family of Beaune negociants for more than three decades, and with the re-emergence of that house as a quality force, one hopes that more attention will be paid to some of the most distinctive and age-worthy wines from one of the largest estates (including 1/6 of the grand cru acreage) in Chablis. Director Matthieu Mangenot and his team harvested in only 12 days.Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com