Laroche’s 2011 Chablis Blanchots exhibits a certain restraint vis-a-vis its 2012 counterpart – a bit more austerity, even, which is certainly the opposite of what I have come to expect from my experience with these vintages. Ultimately, though, this can stand comparison with the 2012 for convincing complexity. Lemon-laced clam stock on a polished palate serves for significant saliva-inducement and mineral-animal nuance. The chalkiness here segues into white pepper in a strong finish; and this – taken together with the zesty side of citrus and piquant citrus pip impingements – makes for an invigorating and tactilely incisive impression.
Subsequent to the 2009 absorption of Laroche into the publically traded, Languedoc-based negociant JeanJean SA, Michel Laroche seems to have faded into the role of historical figure and inspiration. In 2011, Gregory Viennois – whose wide experience includes stints with Derenoncourt and Chapoutier – stepped into the role of technical director (i.e. winemaker) long-held by Denis de la Bourdonnaye. The scope of vineyards being sourced as well as estate vineyards being planted continue to expand. Viennois reports having picked relatively late in 2011 in order to emphasize the ripe pit fruit expression of which that vintage is manifestly capable. Yet, inexplicably, it wasn’t manifest in the two examples I sampled alongside the 2012 collection. Some lots in 2011, reports Viennois, never underwent malo-lactic transformation, but I can’t say that I sense this having been a significant factor in the two I tasted. In 2012, harvest was – as at most domaines – postponed until it became necessary, in the last week of September, and completed in the first several days of October. While Laroche’s three grand crus from 2012 were still in barrel, all of the premier crus were assembled, and most had been racked into tank (from foudre, barrels or other tanks) just a week before I visited, so I have made liberal use of the designation “+?” to allow for likely recovery from shock. Bottling was projected for late this year through next spring depending on the wine in question and its perceived evolution. By the way, although Laroche is well known for being a pioneer in the use of screw-cap closures, all of the samples I tasted on the present occasion had been sealed with natural cork! (Luckily, none were tainted.) Note also that in keeping with past practice in these reports, I have not reflected in the official description of a wine its origin in purchased or domaine fruit as the case may be, except where this is necessary to disambiguate the wines because of there being both an estate-bottling and a negociant bottling from the same cru. I have, however, mentioned a wine’s vineyard sources or estate status as part of its tasting note.
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