The 1980 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru from Mongeard-Mugneret is drinking beautifully today, unwinding in the glass with aromas of sweet cherries and raspberries mingled with warm spices, loamy soil and peony. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's rich and muscular, with a deep core of fruit, powdery tannins and a long, penetrating finish. Drunk alongside the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's 1980 Richbourg, the Grands Echézeaux was earthier and less ethereal, with more body and muscle: it was a fascinating comparison of two different sites and winemaking approaches in the same vintage.