From the Classico zone, the 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico undergoes three years of oak with stints in large oak cask, barrique and tonneaux. There’s complexity and intensity here with background shadings of dried tobacco leaf, cherry cola, blackberry liqueur and worn leather. The wine shows great integration and smoothness, with just enough tannic firmness to give it importance and cellar longevity. Drink 2014-2022.
I am surprised to discover that Cesari has not been previously reviewed in The Wine Advocate. Deborah Cesari and her father Franco now run the company founded by grandfather Gerardo Cesari in 1936. They own vineyards in Valpolicella and Lugana with four historic single-vineyard sites: Bosan, Bosco, Jema and Centofilari. They just bought three more hectares in San Ciriaco Negrar. The house style, executed by enologist Luigi Biemmi, definitely veers toward the international side of the Amarone spectrum (medium-toast French barrique is preferred). But their wines are exceptionally clean and balanced, revealing unique personalities across the board. In the ten years I have tasted Cesari, I don’t remember finding the overtly raisiny or oxidative qualities you sometimes get with Amarone. This flight with excellent picks from the 2010, 2009, 2007 and 2005 vintages make for an impressive debut in these pages.
Importers: Opici Wine Company, www.opici.com; Siena Imports, www.sienaimports.com