The 2008 Riesling Terra Montosa – Breuers’ second wine for the collective Rudesheimer Berg crus and Nonnenberg – is more dominated by the bitterness of peach kernel and invigoration of mineral salts and pungent citrus rind than by the flesh of peaches or citrus. Piquantly nutty and pithily stony elements creep into the finish of this firmly-textured, tightly-corseted, inscrutably dense dry Riesling. (At nine grams residual sugar, it is just barely legally trocken.) This gets high points for sheer length though, and for those attracted by a Rudesheim mountain-climbing sense of austerity and rigor, the vista should be worthwhile for at least 4-5 years. At more than 9,000 man hours including the time spent on intensive selection, Heinrich Breuer says this was one of the most labor-intensive and expensive harvests in the estate’s history. “We have 80 parcels in Rudesheim and are very conscientious about checking each one every couple of days to make sure the acidity doesn’t drop too low, to check the must weights, and to deal with any issues that might arise. We were in fact happy to have gotten around a half a gram more acidity at harvest than in the 2007s,” continues Breuer, who says it was really the phenolics and not the quality of acids or levels of sugar that changed while they picked in the course of October. Reports have reached me of the extent to which the top 2008 vintage Rieslings here are said to have became more harmonious and complex in the course of last autumn, so I may well have underestimated them based on my September tastings. But I was already totally disarmed and amazed by the quality of the several best nobly sweet wines, coming as they do from an estate that treats that genre very much as an afterthought (or, more accurately, as a part of pre-harvest provided noble rot is already there) and from a vintage in which so few such wines were essayed nation-wide.Importer: Classical Wines, Seattle WA; tel. (206) 547-0255
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