Marchesi Antinori Guado al Tasso Il Bruciato Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy

安東尼世家古道探索伊博露奇紅葡萄酒

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The 2008 Il Bruciato offers up vibrant red cherries, flowers and minerals in a relatively fresh, forward style for Bolgheri. Some of the mid-palate density of the finest vintages is missing, but the 2008 compensates for that with its terrific sense of balance and poise. This is a delicious entry-level wine from the Tuscan coast. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. I continue to be amazed at the high average quality Antinori achieves across a production that exceeds a whopping 20 million bottles per year. This is a fabulous set of new releases. Long-time Oenologist Renzo Cotarella could certainly have rested on his laurels; after all he is already one of Italy’s most celebrated winemakers. Instead, Cotarella continues to improve quality in a meaningful way. The highlights are the 2007s, which are off the charts. I first sampled Antinori’s 2007 Tignanello and Solaia two years ago, when they were still separate wines from individual parcels, but even then it was clear these were going to be special wines. Tasting Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Tignanello and Solaia vineyards, both in Chianti Classico, was an unforgettable lesson in the uniqueness of each of these fabulous terroirs. The Solaia vineyard in particular is clearly one of Italy’s greatest sites. Everything I tasted was loaded with personality and sheer character. One of the recent major changes at Antinori is the separate vinification of component wines for Guado al Tasso, Tignanello and Solaia, which began with the 2004 vintage. In 2007 Cotarella took that approach even further, with small parcel-by-parcel vinifications that allowed for maximum flexibility when the final blend for each wine was ultimately assembled. The 2007 harvest brings with it a number of additional changes. Syrah has been eliminated from Guado al Tasso in favor of Cabernet Franc, a grape that is proving to be exceptionally well-suited to the Tuscan coast. If the 2007 is any indication, Guado al Tasso is taking on a much more Bordeaux-like personality. The estate is also gradually moving toward slightly larger barrels and less new oak for their Sangioveses. Importer: Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Woodinville, WA, tel. (425) 415-3738

This is a lovely wine (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and other grapes) that shows very attractive softness in the mouth backed by a velvety texture and fine tannins. Black fruit, tobacco, spice and leather accent the bouquet: Pair it with black truffle Cornish hen.——M.L.(12/15/2010)—— 91