The Long-Depaquit 2008 Chablis Vaillons (coming largely from the east-facing Epinottes, nearest the town of Chablis itself) presents a brightly lemony as well as maritime personality, its stiff yet refreshing palate presence suffused with salt, chalk, and alkali. This finishes a bit hard but will hopefully blossom in bottle over the next several years. The Long-Depaquit 2008 grand crus were bottled already in January, though had I not known this I might have been tempted to ascribe their firmness and at times somewhat muted flavors in April to post-bottling shock. Seemingly aware of their potential for austerity, Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot indicated that he quite actively worked the lees of his young 2008s.Various importers, including Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515 and Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718) 482-0200

Bracing lime and mango. Suave, juicy, concentrated, mineral, classic in its vigour and reserve. Not super-expressive but firm and long.