Pungent smokiness and citrus zest mark the nose of the Long-Depaquit 2007 Chablis Vaillons, with under-ripe peach and gooseberry following on the palate to reinforce a Sauvignon-like sense. This wine's brightness and treble personality are underlain by a palpable sense of high extract. Smoke, salt, crushed stone, lemon zest, and sage make for an invigoratingly tart and multi-faceted, if rather lean palate impression, and an aggressive finish. It will be interesting to see whether this tones down or relaxes in bottle, but for now all I can advise is to choose food pairings that might play to its strong side, and not make plans past 2-3 years out. Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot - like a number of Chablis growers - began picking September 6; took a few days pause soon thereafter; and finished around mid-month. Given the higher acid levels, he elected to slightly more actively work those lees that were retained, one of several instances I noted in Chablis this vintage that countered a general trend in recent years toward lees passivity in Burgundy.Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

The wine has some of the steely, mineral character of Chablis, while also offering richer toast flavors. It is crisp, a delicious green edge to it, while the structure promises a few years development.——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 92