The Philippe Colin 2007 Saint-Aubin Le Charmois mingles ripe apricot, grapefruit zest, and toasted nuts both on the nose and lush, creamy palate. Citrus oil and fruit pit bitterness are here more successfully integrated than in the corresponding Les Combes bottling, and there is ample brightness and refreshment in the finish – even as a hint of honey creeps in – so that the touch of heat is not objectionable. Colin insists that Charmois is inherently more generous and forthcoming than Les Combes. Since splitting the family inheritance with his brother Bruno in 2004, Philippe Colin has taken on supplemental grape contracts, but only where he is able to personally work the vines and call the shots at harvest. In 2007, he picked his entire acreage in one week, beginning September 4, and lightly chaptalized his wines to levels generally just on either side of 13%. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524