Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Mosel, Germany

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Given the somewhat disappointing performance of Richter’s corresponding “two-star” Spatlese, I was surprised and relieved to discover a 2009 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese that displays the animated, almost sizzling acidity more typical for his 2009 collection as a whole. Pineapple, lemon, peach, and resin in the nose are joined on the palate by an unusual hint of browned butter as well as invigorating salinity. And for all of its welcome brightness, this harbors an alluring textural creaminess, finishing with a focus and saliva-inducing savor that leaves the two other Richter Auslesen of this vintage far behind. But he is at pains to point out that this particular wine was one of his few 2009s to express its ripeness early on and not required delayed bottling, so that he believes it continues to benefit from simply being more evolved. Look for at least 25 years of fascinating satisfaction. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800

This fragrant white shows light, delicate, refined flavors of peach and apple, with hints of pear and tangerine. Buttery and spicy on the crisp finish. Drink now through 2040. 250 cases made.??–KM??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add