The 2004 Isola dei Nuraghi Gerione is 35% Bovale Sardo, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Syrah cropped to tiny yields. This is a remarkable wine for its sheer depth and purity. Violets, grilled herbs, smoke, cured meats, new leather, spices, blueberry jam and French oak are melded together in a compelling, seamless style. Deceptively medium in body, the wine possesses awesome richness and a long, ringing finish. This is a great effort from Isola dei Nuraghi. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Proprietors Heide and Francesco Siclari make intense, powerful wines from their 50 hectares of vineyards. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

This oak-aged Sardinian wine opens with awkward aromas of black fruit, pecorino cheese and wild mushroom that blow off after a few seconds. Ultimately, the bouquet makes sense thanks to the toasted spice and oak tones that keep it together. The wine shows a smooth and polished texture in the mouth and sweet fruit flavors.——M.L.(9/1/2009)—— 87