The 2003 Rovitello is made from 80-year-old Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio vines, some of which are still on ungrafted rootstock. It is a very ripe wine with candied red fruit and a wild, gamey personality that takes some getting used to. The firm, unpolished tannins also contribute to an overall impression of rusticity. Still, this is a very pretty and fresh wine to drink over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013. Benanti is making some of the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily’s re-discovered Mount Etna appellation. These dramatic, old vines are grown on the slopes of the volcano and offer plenty of site-specific character. Most of the wines are made from indigenous varieties although international grapes are used in a few of the reds. I can’t add much more, except to urge readers to discover the extraordinary wines of Benanti.Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524