The 1937 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is a beauty, unfurling in the glass with aromas of candied rose petals, Asian spices, Griotte cherries, rare duck and licorice. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and layered, with a gourmand core of sweet fruit, melting tannins and a generous, sun-kissed profile, sustained by succulent acids. It's ten years older, but the 1937 Romanée-Saint-Vivant was altogether deeper and more compelling than the bottle of 1947 that preceded it. It's on course to see out its 90th birthday in style.