The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon reveals a classic St.-Julien/Pauillac-like loamy, earthy character intermixed with notes of black currants, licorice, cedarwood and spice box. It is a blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Merlot. Medium to full-bodied, rich, textured, and close to full maturity, it is already showing lots of aromatic development as well as plenty of stuffing and intensity. It is a terrific choice for readers looking for mature aromas and flavors along with the exuberant fruit, purity and youthfulness of a classic Napa Cab. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Tel. (707) 257-4756.

I had to double-check the price on this brilliant wine because it’s much less than other Napa Cabs. It’s a fat, sweet, fleshy wine, instantly appealing for its delicious blackberry, blackstrap molasses, cherry, violet and sweet oak flavors, yet it’s a cellar guarantee. The tannins are finely ground and wonderfully ripe, giving the wine a firm lushness that lasts through a long, satisfying finish. Should be easy to find, with 10,300 cases produced.——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 94