Despite its warm mesoclimate, Céline Fontaine told me that the 2017 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru didn't suffer in the dry August weather. As usual, the wine is rich and dramatic, bursting with a musky bouquet of mandarin orange, honeycomb, citrus blossom and spices. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and succulent, with an ample, textural attack but nice purity and delineation on the finish. The most precocious grand cru in the cellar, it will drink well out of the gates.