The 2009 Criots-Batard-Montrachet is an insanely beautiful wine. Layers of fruit emerge effortlessly in this sublime, captivating Burgundy. White flowers, honey and mint contribute to an impression of sensuality on the exceptionally long, silky finish. This is a fabulous effort that is notable for its seamlessness and totally sublime, engaging personality. The Criots is the most delicate of the grand crus here, and it is fabulous. Anticipated maturity: 2016+. Richard Fontaine began harvesting the 2009s on September 6. The malos were fairly quick and were completed by April 2010. The wines were racked in June and bottled in early September. Perhaps it is inevitable with a total of ten different Chassagne premier crus in the lineup, but in this vintage not all of the wines are markedly different from each other. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446

Ripe, grassy, floral nose, with great charm. Quite rich and concentrated, but overall this is a discreet rather than flashy style, with admirable poise and persistence.