One or two friends have mentioned the proclivity for this domaine’s older vintages toward premature oxidation. I would need to taste more before commenting myself, although this 1990 Criots Batard Montrachet displayed no signs, rather a case of being fully mature. Burnished-golden in color, it has an attractive beeswax, lanolin, honeycomb and sea-spray nose that does not possess great clarity, but opens nicely in the glass. The palate is clearly mature with grilled walnut and smoke on the entry. There is good depth here with a pleasant resinous texture, concluding with a Condrieu-like finish.
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