The 2008 Chianti Classico (Sangiovese) comes across as somewhat forward in its dark cherries, tobacco, leather and spices. It shows good body but the tannins lack a bit of polish. Early tertiary notes suggest this is a relatively early drinking vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Proprietor Marco Bacci makes a wide range of wines across his properties in Tuscany, but those of Castello di Bossi lead the way when it comes to quality and consistency. These are rich, textured wines that in most cases can handle fairly high amounts of new French oak. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Castello di Bossi makes some of the best Chianti Classico you will find and this base expression shows the beauty and potential of Tuscany in slightly less austere terms. It’s a smooth, round wine with loads of cherry, blackberry, spice, chocolate and leather. ——M.L.(4/1/2011)—— 88