The more statuesque 2007 Syrah Moritz delivers a complex perfume of meat, hung game, Asian spices, incense, and blueberry. Mouth-filling and structured on the palate, this well-balanced effort has superior grip and concentration. It should be in full form with 5-7 years of cellaring. In a sign of the times, pricing for Roman Bratasiuk’s Clarendon Hills portfolio has been reduced by close to 50% across the board. Suddenly, most of the wines offer an excellent price to quality relationship. As usual, the Clarendon Hills wines are unblended, 100% varietal, sourced from mostly old-vine, ungrafted, single vineyards, fermented naturally, and bottled without fining or filtration. Only seasoned oak is used for the Grenache bottlings, 100% new French oak for the Merlot and Cabernets, and 50-100% new French oak for the Syrahs depending upon the cuvee. There is a new addition to the portfolio, a Mourvedre sourced from 12 year old vines and aged in 2 year old French oak. The year 2007 was more difficult than the three that preceded it, marked by a 45-50% reduction in crop levels and elevated tannin from the resulting thick skins. As Bratasiuk notes, “Tight, drying tannin is the hallmark of the vintage.” Nevertheless, this is an impressive collection from one of Australia’s icon wineries.Importer: E & J Gallo, Modesto, CA; www.clarendonhills.com.au

One of Clarendon Hills’ more affordable wines, the 2007 Moritz Syrah carries an intriguing hint of green peppercorn on the nose, alongside blueberries and graham crackers. Then the flavors turn meatier and more savory, blending in black olives and coffee. It’s medium in body and structured with silky tannins, making it immediately approachable. Drink now–2020.——J.C.(3/1/2010)—— 92