The exceptionally fragrant, dark purple 2003 Syrah Moritz Vineyard boasts an extraordinary perfume of acacia flowers, blackberries, cassis, roasted meats, and subtle wood. With fabulous concentration, an expansive, savory texture, well-integrated acidity, alcohol, and wood, and a remarkable finish with plenty of sweet tannin, it can be drunk now or cellared for 12-15 years. Importer: Commonwealth Wine & Spirits Inc., Mansfield, MA; tel. (508) 328-6764

This Syrah is still a baby, but is already just a gorgeous expression of pure plum fruit. It's not lush yet—it will probably be drinking its best in around 2012. In the meanwhile deep, intoxicating whiffs of black peppercorns, wheat bread, dried fruit, and fresh plums and berries will just have to hold you over. ——D.T.(3/1/2005)—— 93