Strawberry, black raspberry honey, and mint scent Amiel’s 2006 Maury Vintage Reserve, which displays a relative delicacy and restrained sweetness for a representative of this cuvee, not to mention the complete absence of any overt suggestion of oak. There is a flattering creaminess much as in the 2007, and in the finish suggestions of wet stone and graphite akin to those one might expect from dry red wines, along with a soothing sense of refreshing herbal essences, and pure, fresh berries. I would plan to enjoy this over the next 3-5 years, although it is not going to crash any time soon. Stephane Gallet has left Mas Amiel, and long-time associate Nicolas Raffy moved into the role of vineyard manager and cellar manager. For his 2007 vintage dry reds, owner Olivier Decelle solicited advice from Stephane Derenoncourt and the especially fruit-forward character of the dry reds from that vintage may be in part on account of changes made in the fermentative and extractive regimen, involving among other aspects only very limited pump-overs. For 2008, a portion of the Carerades will be matured in foudres in lieu of smaller barrels. In vintage 2006, Decelle employed the consulting services of Michel Rolland. The current Mas Amiel non-vintage renditions of ten and fifteen year old wooded are very much in keeping with the character and quality described in issue 173, so I have omitted new tasting notes. Like most of the wines at this address, they represent excellent values. I remain relatively unimpressed (particularly given their high prices) by Mas Amiel’s older, very late-released vintage bottlings.A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
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