Vinified entirely in used barriques, Mas Amiel’s 2005 Maury Vintage Reserve offers a striking contrast with the 2007. Chocolate-covered cherries and black raspberriesinform an unusually viscous, low toned, imposingly rich, almost syrup-like palate, with bitter-sweet dark chocolate and pungent nuttiness playing the dominant role in the wine’s finish, along with a faint bit of heat. For pairing with chocolate desserts – one of the special talents of the appellation – this 2005 will be ideal. But you’ll search in vain for the vivacity and vividness of fruit that one finds in the 2007. Nor do I see this as a reserve worth holding for more than a few years. Stephane Gallet has left Mas Amiel, and long-time associate Nicolas Raffy moved into the role of vineyard manager and cellar manager. For his 2007 vintage dry reds, owner Olivier Decelle solicited advice from Stephane Derenoncourt and the especially fruit-forward character of the dry reds from that vintage may be in part on account of changes made in the fermentative and extractive regimen, involving among other aspects only very limited pump-overs. For 2008, a portion of the Carerades will be matured in foudres in lieu of smaller barrels. In vintage 2006, Decelle employed the consulting services of Michel Rolland. The current Mas Amiel non-vintage renditions of ten and fifteen year old wooded are very much in keeping with the character and quality described in issue 173, so I have omitted new tasting notes. Like most of the wines at this address, they represent excellent values. I remain relatively unimpressed (particularly given their high prices) by Mas Amiel’s older, very late-released vintage bottlings.A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
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