Originating as usual in the contiguous crus of Gorseilles, Gruenchers, Noirots and Baudes, Bertheaus’ 2008 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru is deceptively light in color given that its fruit is of dark berries. A hint of caramel contrasts with a tart berry edge and marries nicely with salted beef marrow on a bracingly bright palate, leading to a persistently invigorating if slightly inharmonious finish. The elements may knit here with a bit more distance from bottling, but certainly one can count on considerable satisfaction over the next 4-6 years at least. Francois Bertheau’s tendency toward rendering frisky, sharply-etched and sharp-edged Pinot was practically bound to be accentuated by 2008 vintage character, and the quality of results varied considerably by appellation. Asked which of 2007 and 2008 were more challenging, Bertheau answered, in English, “fifty-fifty,” but this is one address where I found the softer, riper, if relatively diffuse personality of the former vintage more satisfying.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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