The Bertheaus’ 2007 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru smells of almond and pistachio extracts; kirsch; and brown spiced plum. Surprisingly soft and youthfully caressing for a young Bertheau bottling, it brings star anise, tamarind, and beef marrow to its seductively long, cherry- and plum-flesh dominated finish. I would plan to enjoy this over the next half dozen years. Francois Bertheau’s tendency toward rendering frisky, sharply-etched and sharp-edged Pinot was practically bound to be accentuated by 2008 vintage character, and the quality of results varied considerably by appellation. Asked which of 2007 and 2008 were more challenging, Bertheau answered, in English, “fifty-fifty,” but this is one address where I found the softer, riper, if relatively diffuse personality of the former vintage more satisfying.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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