The 2007 Lugana reveals a delicate expression of ripe peaches, mint and sage, with lovely balance and poise. The indigenous Trebbiano di Lugana is especially aromatic here, where it is grown on the shores of Lake Garda. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2009. Zenato is a producer I have long admired for their traditionally-styled Amarone and Valpolicella. Some of their entry-level wines are made in a more commercial style, and while quality can be variable, the best of these wines merit attention. Sadly, as I finished this article I heard of the passing of Sergio Zenato, a man who had done so much for the wines of Veneto.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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