From five and half barrels, the 2013 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru has a clinical nose with wonderful delineation. It is teasingly aloof at first, distant with faint oyster shell and brine notes, but glimpses only. Then it opens the door ajar with limestone and dewy green apple scents. The palate is extremely well balanced with clearly much higher level of tension than the Premier Crus from Niellon. But it is strict and very linear, long but without the peacock’s tail that will develop with time in bottle. There is almost a Riesling-like poise here, a Chevalier to cellar away while you enjoy the more open Batard-Montrachet. Excellent.
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