Paul Jaboulet Aine Le Chevalier de Sterimberg, Hermitage, France

嘉伯樂斯坦伯格騎士白葡萄酒

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Not surprisingly, the prodigious 2010 Hermitage Chevalier de Sterimberg (about 15,000 bottles produced) is firm and closed, behaving more like a serious red wine than a white. A true grand cru white from the Northern Rhone, it exhibits crisp acidity, lots of tangerine oil, orange marmalade, honeysuckle and acacia flower-like notes intermixed with hints of quince, fig and wet rocks. It would be interesting to place this full-bodied, stunning white in a tasting of Burgundy grand crus. Readers should not forget the southern Rhone offerings from Paul Jaboulet-Aine that I reviewed in Issue #203 (October, 2012), especially such terrific values as the 2010 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Plan de Dieu Domaine Pere et Fille and the resurrected Chateauneuf du Papes, the 2010 Domaine de Terre Ferme. The Northern Rhone wines reviewed herein reflect the emphasis on building domaine names while not forsaking the negociant wines. The wines reviewed in this report are only the domaine wines where the Paul Jaboulet firm owns the vineyards and harvests the grapes. In Cornas, the Jaboulets own the highly regarded Domaine de St.-Pierre. A second wine, the Hermitage La Petite Chapelle, is now made in order to increase the quality of Jaboulet’s flagship offering, the Hermitage La Chapelle. As for the Hermitage La Chapelle, recent vintages (starting with 2009) have been the greatest wines made at this estate since one of the all-time classics, the 1990. There was no 2011 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Roure declared. The white wines from Paul Jaboulet-Aine have also jumped in quality. Keep in mind that the proprietors, the Frey family, not only own Chateau La Lagune in Bordeaux, but are also major stockholders in the impressive Champagne firm of Billecart-Salmon. The 2010 whites all performed well. They are slightly less evolved and precocious than the 2011s, and possess a slightly greater degree of the crushed rock minerality than one finds in the more fruit-driven 2011s. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

There are approximately 1,000 cases of the 2010 Hermitage Chevalier de Sterimberg, a barrel-fermented blend of 70% Marsanne and 30% Roussanne that is aged in small oak. This ageworthy white possesses terrific acidity as well as lots of white peach, apricot, citrus oil, floral, marmalade and honeysuckle notes. With fabulous richness, good acidity and a long finish, it should provide plenty of pleasure for 20+ years. The resurrection of the white Hermitage La Chapelle (100% Marsanne) is an enormous success story. One needs no further evidence of the extraordinary turn around in the quality of the Jaboulet wines than what proprietress Caroline Frey has accomplished in 2009 as well as 2010. As I indicated last year, this is one of the great qualitative turn arounds in the wine world. It is welcomed by all wine lovers given the historic legacy of the wines of Jaboulet and the importance of this famous firm in all of France. Ms. Frey, who is also responsible for the brilliant wines produced at La Lagune in Bordeaux, has reduced the amount of new oak for the red wines to about 20% and to negligible proportions for the whites. A second wine of Hermitage, La Petite Chapelle, is fashioned from 33% or more of the production that is culled out to guarantee that the great reputation of the Hermitage La Chapelle has enjoyed over the last century is maintained. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700