In 2005 Colore was made from the three best barrels in the cellar, consisting of one each Sangiovese, Colorino and Canaiolo. Yields were a miniscule 12 hectoliters per hectare. The wine possesses perfumed aromatics that meld into a seamless palate of perfumed dark red cherries, minerals and sweet toasted oak, with a darker flavor profile than the Testamatta. This medium-bodied red offers superb poise and balance, with a long, inviting finish. It too needs bottle age to reach its fullest potential. For readers looking at the $800 price tag, that is not a typo. It does represent a completely preposterous, egregious and delusional (you get the idea) approach to pricing, especially considering that Graetz, despite his unquestioned talent, has less than a decade of history under his belt. Colore is a beautiful wine, but its intrinsic value is perhaps in the neighborhood of $80 or so. The rest of the price is simply a play on the wine's scarcity (900 bottles produced) rather than a reflection of what is truly in the bottle. I can think of an infinite number of smarter and ultimately more rewarding ways to spend $800 dollars on wine, and my guess is Wine Advocate readers can too. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.
Bibi Graetz's wines always make me smile because they have an almost child-like joy about them.
Various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Trilussa Wine Company, Greenbrae, CA; tel. (415) 927 9463, Siema Wines LLC, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-1200, MS Walker, Sommerville, MA; tel. (617) 776 6700
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