Pascal Bouchard Mont de Milieu, Chablis Premier Cru, France

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3436

Vinified largely in tank with just 15% rendered in barrel, the Bouchard 2008 Chablis Mont-de-Milieu smells of lime, huckleberry, and apple pip; displays a correspondingly slightly bitter, tart, austere palate impression, but with satisfying nuttiness welling up as it opens; and finishes long on juicy refreshment, crushed stone and discrete spice from oak. Enjoy if over the next 2-3 years.Pascal Bouchard’s large, north-western Chablis-oriented estate – which I visited this April for the first time in many years – supplements its production with contract fruit. Among Bouchard’s premier crus, only their Beauroy (from purchased grapes) is machine-harvested, and around one-third of their generic Chablis sites are hand-harvested. I have argued and continue to insist that the evidence by no means rules out impressive results via machines, but their relative insignificance at this address is certainly an indication of Bouchard’s seriousness about and willingness to sacrifice in what they believe is the interest of quality.Importers include William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Sweet fruit core, pure but subtle. Fresh acidity. Medley of citrus, leafy fruit and minerals. Nice harmony. Forward.