The most serious red is Luna's proprietary Tuscan blend (primarily Sangiovese, Merlot, and a tiny dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon that sees 60% new oak) called Canto. The 1999 Canto is a 1,000-case blend of 54% Sangiovese, 38% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Its dense garnet/plum color is followed by sweet aromas of saddle leather, fresh tobacco, black currants, cherries, scorched earth, and spice. It is a complex, super-Tuscan look-alike. This medium to full-bodied 1999 can be cellared for a decade. Tel. (707) 255-5862

Expensive, yes, but these guys know what theyOre doing. This Super-Tuscan blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon defines NapaOs virtues: Complexity, deliciousness, and the softest, creamiest tannins, together with the modern penchant for low acidity and, of course, lots of new oak. This wine wows with opulence and impresses with elegance.——S.H.(9/1/2002)—— 95