The 2003 Hermitage Vin de Paille was spectacular. Made from straw dried Marsanne and aged all in new oak, it offers incredible notes of caramelized tropical fruits, quince, brioche, cigar and honeycomb to go with a unctuous, thick and chewy profile on the palate that somehow stays fresh and lively. Almost requiring a fork as opposed to a glass, it will most likely be indestructible in the cellar and can be enjoyed anytime over the coming century. Finishing harvest at the end of August, Michel Chapoutier produced a monumental lineup of wines in 2003, and enough can’t be said about the quality coming for this estate. To say I was blown away would be an understatement.

One of the specialities at this estate is the limited production (about 2,000 375 ml bottles) dessert wines called Ermitage Vin de Paille. The 2003 is an amazing elixir possessing 15% alcohol and 160 grams of residual sugar. A light gold color, unctuous texture, and extraordinary notes of white truffles, orange marmalade, molasses, and creme brulee emerge from this rich, decadent, luxurious offering. It should last for 100+ years. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900