The four finest second wines (wines made from declassified first-growth cuvees) I have ever tasted are the 1982 and 1990 Forts de Latour, 1989 Bahans-Haut-Brion, and 1995 Pavillon de Chateau Margaux. I am amazed by just how delicious the 1989 Bahans-Haut-Brion continues to be. Although it is approaching full maturity, it reveals no signs of amber. The 1989 is a textbook Graves in its sweet, blackcurrant, tobacco, roasted herb-scented nose. Medium to full-bodied, with succulent texture, rich, fleshy flavors, and low acidity, it is a pure, beautifully made wine. It should continue to drink well for 5-8 years. Both the 1989 and 1990 Bahans-Haut-Brion represented splendid bargains when they were released. I suspect quantities still exist in the marketplace.
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