Vanilla, licorice, honey and apple in the nose of the Loosen 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese gold capsule lead into a rich, soothing, surprisingly soft palate. Apple jelly, vanilla cream, and melon liqueur make for an opulent sense of over-ripeness. Here is another 2008 Loosen Auslese of admirable purity and delicacy that however misses – at least in this youthful state – quite the magic of the best of the collection’s residually sweet offerings. I would certainly expect at least 15-20 years of satisfaction here, though. Ernst Loosen insists he aims to observe an upper limit of 12.5% alcohol for his trocken bottlings, a level that one might have expected was easily achievable in 2008; but in fact, a portion of this vintage’s collection comes close to transgressing it. When it comes to residually sweet Kabinett – a genre in which Loosen has long excelled – his frequently-voiced concerns that “the real thing” was becoming almost impossible (or at least, impossibly expensive) to achieve nowadays certainly do not apply to the 2008 vintage, when his collection of Kabinetts is not only superb, but also lively and feather-light. Indeed, the whole 2008 Loosen Oeuvre – while consisting of fewer wines than usual, with its nobly sweet selections even more (and more spectacularly) focused than usual on Pralat – is superb. What’s more, even cellarmaster Bernard Schug voiced his amazement at just how little sweetness most of the residually sweet wines display. Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

Vanilla, licorice, honey and apple in the nose of the Loosen 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese gold capsule lead into a rich, soothing, surprisingly soft palate. Apple jelly, vanilla cream, and melon liqueur make for an opulent sense of over-ripeness. Here is another 2008 Loosen Auslese of admirable purity and delicacy that however misses – at least in this youthful state – quite the magic of the best of the collection’s residually sweet offerings. I would certainly expect at least 15-20 years of satisfaction here, though. Ernst Loosen insists he aims to observe an upper limit of 12.5% alcohol for his trocken bottlings, a level that one might have expected was easily achievable in 2008; but in fact, a portion of this vintage’s collection comes close to transgressing it. When it comes to residually sweet Kabinett – a genre in which Loosen has long excelled – his frequently-voiced concerns that “the real thing” was becoming almost impossible (or at least, impossibly expensive) to achieve nowadays certainly do not apply to the 2008 vintage, when his collection of Kabinetts is not only superb, but also lively and feather-light. Indeed, the whole 2008 Loosen Oeuvre – while consisting of fewer wines than usual, with its nobly sweet selections even more (and more spectacularly) focused than usual on Pralat – is superb. What’s more, even cellarmaster Bernard Schug voiced his amazement at just how little sweetness most of the residually sweet wines display.Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

A brisk, apple- and pear-flavored Riesling, with vibrant acidity offsetting its modest sweetness. This is tasty and refreshing, if a bit one-dimensional, with an apple-infused finish. Drink now through 2025.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

A pale, lemon color Riesling. The complex nose of honey, delicate stone fruit, elder-flower and stony minerality is deliciously inviting, while intense, focused ripe fruit prevails all across the palate. This is sweet, yet crisp and oozing freshness, with a taut, lively texture. Very long, complex and subtle at the same time. ——W.E.(3/1/2011)—— 91