Bert Selbach picked his entire crop in just two weeks beginning the tenth of October, preserving healthy acidity throughout his range, even when it is sometimes covered by overt sweetness in the youthful wines. Selbach's 2005 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese displays subtle aromas of black currant and lemon curd, comes onto the palate with a honeyed yet juicy cast to its currant and lemon themes, and evinces youthful refinement and lace-like intricacy of berry, mineral and citrus flavors, as well as an almost Kabinett-like delicacy rare in this ripe vintage. Subtle undertones of black currant, black walnut, and vanilla lend a bitter-sweet edge to this lovely example of an often under-appreciated site. Savor it any time over the next 20 years. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($15.00; 85), 2005 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett feinherb (unknown; 86).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463
