Sure, this wine shows the effects of the hot summer in its slightly jammy raspberry flavors, but there’s also incredible complexity to complement the fruit intensity—Asian spices, tea, pepper and meat, to name just a few nuances. It’s all wrapped in a blanket of soft tannins, but stays fresh-tasting thanks to great minerality despite low acidity. Drink now–2030 or beyond.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 97