The atypical 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hesperides (50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre aged in cement tank and 20% Syrah aged in new oak) reveals lots of sauteed mushroom, roast beef, bouquet garni and tree bark-like notes. It is hard to envision what this black, brooding wine might turn out to be in 5-10 years, when it is fully mature. (Not yet released)With 25 acres in Chateauneuf du Pape and even more acreage in surrounding Cotes du Rhone areas, this exceptionally well run estate has been producing high quality wines under the Bonnet family regime for at least a decade. The three 2010 Cotes du Rhones I tasted all merit consideration. The 2009 Chateauneuf du Papes are largely drinkable, with the exception of Les Hesperides.Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476; Vigneron Imports, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 530-1616; Oslo Enterprise LLC, Takoma Park, MD; tel. (301) 326-2056

The outstanding 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hesperides has calmed down since I tasted it last year. Made from a similar blend and elevage as the 2011, it reveals lots of meaty, blackberry and cassis notes intermixed with earth and roasted herbs. Full-bodied, rich, fresh and well-delineated, it should evolve for 10-15 years. During my tasting trip to Chateauneuf du Pape I was only presented with La Bastide Saint-Dominique’s 2011s and the 2010 Les Hesperides, but I was able to acquire some bottles of the other 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees elsewhere. The estate’s wines were completely sold out and even the owners had no 2010 stock remaining. With 25 acres in Chateauneuf du Pape as well as larger acreage in the Cotes du Rhone, this estate has been on top of its game for some time thanks to the qualitative improvements and commitments of the Bonnet family. Nearly all of their vineyards are in the northeastern sector of Chateauneuf du Pape, particularly in the areas known as Pignan (with sandy, sometimes clay soils) and the small boulder-covered Chapouin region. The 2011s are very strong efforts. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476; Vigneron Imports, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 530-1616; Oslo Enterprise LLC, Takoma Park, MD; tel. (301) 326-2056