The 2010 Kepos is striking in this vintage. Dark cherries, plums, spices, licorice and tobacco are some of the notes that jump from the glass. Sweet herbal nuances appear later, adding complexity and aromatic lift. This is a hugely intriguing wine from Ampeleia that constantly changes in the glass. The Kepos will be fascinating to follow over the next handful of years as it starts to settle down in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020.
I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Ampeleia this year. Every time I went back to the wines, I found a new shade of dimension. A gradual conversion to biodynamic farming and an increased use of cement vats are stripping these wines to the bare essentials, and what comes through more often than not these days is pure class.
Importers: De Santis Selection Imports, Missouri City, TX; tel. (281) 437-1616; Communal Brands, Long Island City, NY; tel. (718) 937-4228
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