There is one barrel of the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haut Densité, an extraordinary wine that transcends its appellation. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of ripe lemons, dried white flowers and beeswax, the wine is medium to full-bodied, immensely layered and concentrated, with an electric sense of energy, incredible texture and a searingly mineral finish. The wine's combination of amplitude, satiny glossiness and weightlessness is magical, surpassing many grands crus, and despite its comparatively lowly appellation I have scored it accordingly.