Lamy's 2012 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haut Densité did not disappoint, opening in the glass with a lively bouquet of citrus oil, white currants, white flowers and notions of wet stones that's still a little youthfully reserved. On the palate, however, the wine is simply magical, revealing an elegantly textural attack, a deep and almost muscular core and a long, unerringly precise finish. With ripe but tangy acids and immense concentration, it's hard to think of a better Puligny AOC bottling.