Full, with lots of structure, this offers concentrated grape and blackberry aromas that open to black-currant and cedar-spice flavors. A fine fruit-acid balance on the full, even palate keeps it lively, even in its fairly youthful and closed state. Dusty tannins and sweet-and-sour black fruits on the long but tight finish close this appealing package.——W.E.(11/1/2000)—— 92