Hexamer’s 2008 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Kabinett is one of several in his current collection to have fermented spontaneously. Honeysuckle and heliotrope, lime and orange inform the nose, and a delightfully delicate juicy palate is equally billowing and winsome. Smoky, stony finishing notes seem to rob this of its last possible measure of finishing juiciness. But it should remain a delightful and typical example of its vintage’s virtues for at least the better part of a decade. Harald Hexamer’s crew generally picked with two buckets this year, segregating botrytis fruit at the same time as that for the dry wines was gathered. The results in both genres sometimes lack a bit of refinement. Hexamer performed some pre-fermentative maceration; some de-acidification; and allowed or encouraged some lots to go through malo-lactic conversion, all in an effort to deal with his high 2008 acidities. Incidentally,he has begun installing the large wooden ovals made for him by Hosch from some exceptionally tight-grained old oaks in the estate, but he will be using them for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris for a time in order to season them before they receive Riesling.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300