Weingut Hexamer Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, Germany

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From a loamier site, the 2006 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Kabinett displays subtle creaminess allied to genuine delicacy, featuring refined variations on spiced apple and pear, rhubarb preserves, and tingling finishing mineral suggestions. Amazingly, considering what I would not hesitate to call its “true Kabinett lightness,” this has around the same 10% alcohol as the powerful, scarcely-delicate “Quarzit” bottling. It also harbors yet higher – nearly ten grams – acidity. Harald Hexamer has made major strides since I last described his operation in these pages in issue 161, refining his approach in the vineyards and cellar, and acquiring astonishingly many new parcels, so that he now has three – and a majority share – in Schlossbockelheimer In den Felsen, and owns or has under contract one-third of the entire Rheingrafenberg (including nearly all of the Eisendell). Hexamer sacrificed some of his remaining crossings in order to insure the harvest of healthy Riesling. His earliest-picked material tasted marginally under-ripe, but he did not finish until the 19th of October, and by then had amassed the finest collection I have tasted thus far at this address.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300