From a rented property whose young vines they first accessed in 2004, the Pavelots’ 2005 Beaune Bressandes smells smoky, meaty and of lightly cooked black raspberry. In the mouth, this exhibits a rather sweet-tart split personality, with nut paste and caramel alongside smoky meatiness in a finish that lacks a bit for refinement. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70.