Readers looking for a mineral-styled Chardonnay that has been aged in neutral wood should check out the 2007 Antithesis Chardonnay. From fruit grown in pure limestone soils, this is as close as a California white can get to grand cru Chablis. Lemon zest, peach blossom, crushed rock, and white currant characteristics are present in this offering along with beautiful acidity, an underlying liqueur of wet rock-like component, and zesty acidity and freshness. It should drink well for at least 3-5 years. This Paso Robles outpost is owned by two Francophiles, Frenchman Francois Perrin (one of the owners of the Rhone Valley's Chateau Beaucastel) and Robert Haas (founder of the import company Vineyard Brands, and a pioneer importer of estate-bottled French wines). Seeking out steep limestone ridges near the Pacific Ocean, Tablas Creek was a work in progress for its first four to five years, but it has come on like gang-busters in the 21st century. The 2007s are unquestionably their finest wines to date, but readers should not overlook the excellent 2006s.Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314