August Kesseler Riesling - Silvaner Halbtrocken, Rheingau, Germany

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Until 2007 labeled solely as “Rheingau,” the Kessler 2008 Silvaner-Riesling was from its inception a cuvee of those two varieties, the majority being Silvaner from old vines in steep slopes of Lorch and Lorchhausen. (Given that Kesseler’s multiple projects with Riesling from these slopes are in part sincerely designed to salvage vertiginous, imperiled acreage and its small farmers, you can imagine the low esteem in which Silvaner from such slopes is held in the market. In fact, you just have to look at the price of this wine!) Herbal and subtly floral aromas, with suggestions of almond and raw, milled grain lend a slight aura of white Burgundy, but this wine’s lightness (despite palpable extract) and simply luscious, bright fruit confirm its very different origins. Riesling-borne citrus zest and salt add cut and invigoration. As in the past, this wine represents an excellent value to enjoy within a couple of years. Cellarmaster Max Himstedt said he and August Kesseler had decided they would de-acidity if the acids in Riesling did not drop below a certain level (not a problem in the Rudesheimer Berg, but a potential one in lesser sites of that village and in Lorch). In the event, it was possible to let the fruit hang long enough to avoid this, and after the significant tartrate precipitation of the winter, the measurable acid levels don’t even seem extreme on paper, although brightness is certainly a trait most of their Rieslings this vintage have in common. A sign of the internal assessment of any given vintage at this address is whether two, one, or no Erstes Gewachs bottling is essayed – and Kesseler’s record on that score has been very conservative. In 2008, he bottled two. On the other hand, no sweet wines – botrytized or otherwise – were attempted. The Kesseler 2008 reds were too immature to assess on the occasion of my last visit there, and as usual I have chosen (and he prefers) to offer an assessment of his finished wines, in this instance of 2007.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802