The 1991 Prado Enea Grand Reserva has a very elegant bouquet of lifted red currant, wild strawberry, mint and leather that is very well-defined and youthful. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, firm tannins and a complex array of flavors: licorice, sage, leather and mulberry fruit. It has very good weight although it has another 15 to 20 years upon its drinking plateau. Bodegas Muga was a must during my afternoon visiting the triumvirate of classic Rioja producers located within spitting distance from each other in Haro. The name should need no introduction. It was founded by Aurora Cano and her husband Isaac in 1932, although the family were growers and did not commence winemaking themselves until the 1960s, when they relocated to the building in Barrio de la Estacion. Under Aurora’s son, Isaac Jnr, who joined us for the tasting, Muga fostered a reputation for high quality, classic Rioja wine sourced from an almost incalculable number of tiny parcels. During the 1990s they branched out to pursue what you might call “modern” Rioja with the inception of “Torre Muga” in 1991. This move may have piqued those that feared Muga was forsaking their classical roots, though those fears were unfounded and the bodega continues to fashion wines that embrace both styles. However, let us commence with their sparkling contribution to the Rioja landscape. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

This generous, traditional red is rich, with alluring aromas and flavors of plum, cola, spice and chocolate. Has a plump texture backed by firm tannins, and remains lively through the long finish. Drink now through 2003.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add