The 1981 Prado Enea Gran Reserva was regarded as the finest vintage from the decade, even though the following vintage was better received. Apparently, it was such a rapid fermentation that one of the vessels exploded! It has a stunning, youthful, complex, cerebral bouquet that really stops you in your tracks. Pure black currant leaf, mint, cedar, lavender and marmalade soar from the glass. The palate is beautifully balanced with refined tannins, perfect acidity and a mouth-coating dark chocolate-tinged, cedar finish that shows immense persistence and elegance. It just begins to fade after ten minutes in the glass, so I would not advise decanting it. If you need proof how well Prado Enea evolves, then this is it. Drink now. Bodegas Muga was a must during my afternoon visiting the triumvirate of classic Rioja producers located within spitting distance from each other in Haro. The name should need no introduction. It was founded by Aurora Cano and her husband Isaac in 1932, although the family were growers and did not commence winemaking themselves until the 1960s, when they relocated to the building in Barrio de la Estacion. Under Aurora’s son, Isaac Jnr, who joined us for the tasting, Muga fostered a reputation for high quality, classic Rioja wine sourced from an almost incalculable number of tiny parcels. During the 1990s they branched out to pursue what you might call “modern” Rioja with the inception of “Torre Muga” in 1991. This move may have piqued those that feared Muga was forsaking their classical roots, though those fears were unfounded and the bodega continues to fashion wines that embrace both styles. However, let us commence with their sparkling contribution to the Rioja landscape. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Firm and elegant, with rich, chocolatey aromas and flavors, a mature Rioja with style and depth but not too weighty or heavy. It has enough tannin to benefit from a few more years in the cellar. Drinkable now, better around 1992.??–null??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add